What's Shak'n?

I just wanted to touch base and let everybody know that I'm alive and well...unlike other parts of Peru.

As I am sure many of you have heard, yesterday (August 15, 2007) there was a HUGE earthquake down here in Peru. Actually, there were 4 of them within an hour; all of which were above 7.0 on the Richter scale. The biggest occurred off shore and was measured at 7.9. Pretty scary, eh? You're telling me!

I find it especially scary for a couple of reasons. First, being from Minnesota, I am not really used to earthquakes in general. My first experience was in Costa Rica back in 2005, and I've felt a couple of cute shakes here in Peru since my arrival. However, this time, the ground was shaking for about 2 minutes! Also, Peru has a pretty fierce history with deadly earthquakes. The most notable occurred in 1970, when a massive earthquake, measuring 7.7, killed about 70,000 people in central Peru. About half of the inhabitants of Huaraz died (the capital city of the department I will be living in), and an entire city was buried, killing 18,000 people (near my new site). Therefore, my initial reaction was to wonder if I would even be able to return to my site.

Although there were many casualties and tragedies, everyone I know (and all those affiliated with the Peace Corps) is well. More so, things could be much worse. They are estimating that about 500 have died and about 1500 are injured. Although it is a very sad situation, the death toll is relatively low considering the strength of the tremor.

At the time of the first shake, I was in a combi, stuck in traffic, in downtown Lima with some fellow youth development volunteers. Actually, we were all quite lucky. Our original travel plans fell through, and we were forced to wait about 45 minutes for our transportation. Had this not happened, we would have been on the top floor of our Assistant Country Director's apartment complex (where we were for a few of the aftershocks...and which received a good shaking as plates and artifacts were broken on the floor, and all wall hangings were crooked).

Originally, we suspected that the combi was breaking down. Then, I thought perhaps our diver was having problems with the clutch. However, after looking out the window, I noticed that the other cars were jumping around too. More so, the trees were shaking, the lamp posts were rocking, and people were fleeing buildings. The first earthquake lasted for about two minutes...which seemed like forever.

At a few moments last night, I could hear the rocks rolling around in the hills above my house as I went to sleep. Everything was pretty stirred up. This mornings paper said that there were 4 earthquakes and about 140 aftershocks. However, several aftershocks were felt into the later part of this morning. What's more, the water in the Pacific receded creating a tidal wave that reached up to 500 meters on shore! What a horribly magnificent experience. I hear they felt the tremble all the way into Columbia. It is sad indeed. Entire cities lay flattened and families are mourning perished loved ones...and others are still looking for those misplaced.

Most people are pretty shaken up right now. Just when I thought the Minneapolis bridge incident would be the biggest tragedy of my Peace Corps experience, Peru had to retort. Anyway, I just wanted all of you to know that I am alive and well. Please, be careful and stay mindful of your brothers and sisters suffering on the southern continent.

My First Site Visit

As I return to Lima with thoughts of future service, I would like to share my site visit. First of all, I now have one more year under my belt with this whole “life” thing in general...that means I had my birthday, and am now 25. My quarter century celebration included a morning view of Huascaran (Peru's tallest mountain), as my overnight bus arrived in the departmental capital of Huaraz on my birthday...a priceless gift.

Huaraz is an incredible city...with a range of snow capped mountains colliding with a black range. However, I was very eager to get out to my site...in the third range called the Cordillera Huayhuash, where I am the only Peace Corps volunteer...in my own world. More so, I've been too patient waiting to become acquainted with my future living arrangements.

This part of Peru is only known to those who truly want to wander off the beaten path. It is filled with incredible views of snowcapped mountains, rolling hills, iridescent green valleys, and turquoise glacial lakes.

My new family is very nice and seem very hospitable. Although the food got a little dodgey...as I can explain later (a tale not for the weak stomached), everything went great. I got a good grip on my community. I met my future co-workers. I was recruited (and will be playing) on our local soccer team. I saw a gnarly bull fight. Basically, I got a taste of life as I will live it for the next two years, and loved it.

To get to my site, you pretty much take a bus to the middle of nowhere. Then, you hike out of that city about an hour to get to my little village. It isn't long before you receive an aerial view of my entire village in the valley. It's beautiful!

Upon closer inspection, you would notice that all of the buildings are made out of adobe. Also, there aren't any streets. However, there is one paved sidewalk...which I don't really understand why. Additionally, there is a bright blue rivier that flows right in front of my village filled with trout waiting to be pulled out. The people are ridiculously nice, and seem thrilled to have me living in their city.

My family there is great. The welcomed me by handing over a sombrero and a the poncho most worn in our valley. The scenery is spectacular. There are plenty of work opportunities to keep my busy and to make me feel productive. Also, I am enthused to hike three to five hours a day in one of the world's most amazing mountain ranges! My only concern is the food.

I ate some pretty gross stuff...I'm not really sure where to start. Well, we had a pachamanca my first day (where you cook a bunch of meet underground). We had lamb, beef, goat, and pig. It was good. Well, the head of the pig was sitting out on the kitchen table for the rest of the night. Apparently, it was going to be used to cook up some chicharones for breakfast. The next morning, with the head still there, I ate a little moldy bread with breakfast (not that big of a deal). Later, I had some potatoes that were a little too old as well (still not too big of a deal). All throughout, the pig's head remained on the kitchen table. When was I going to get these chicharones? I grew somewhat accustomed to this extra “head” at the table. However, by the third day, I noticed that worms/magots were starting to grow in certain parts of the head. But still, we didn't eat the head!

As I roled out of bed three days after my arrival, into the brisk morning mountain air, I saw my future host dad separating the pig's jaw with a small axe. Then, he rinsed the bugs off with tap water. That morning, we FINALLY had our chicharones!

Gross? Well, kind of. However, I didn't get sick. Personally, I found trying to chew and swallow my rice while looking at a swarm of maggots throbbing on a three day old pig's head much more disgusting than actually eating it. It's a new normal. More so, I also ate a rotton piece of chicken that had been sitting out to dry for 2 days for lunch that day. Actually, I took two bites, noticed that my future brother and sisters weren't touching theirs, and threw in the towel.

Yes, I have many things I will need to adjust to in the next couple of years. Some things I will have to bend to fit. Others, I will have to learn to stay away far from. Either way, I will find and test my limits. Now, you'll have to excuse me...I'm back in Lima and could REALLY use something to eat!

Where am I going?

Well, today everybody received their site assignments. It was quit an interesting day; watching my fellow Peace Corps trainees receive their destiny's. They distribute the information via a folder which contains a few pictures, a description, and your general objectives/projects. Therefore, all of what I state bellow is information I have received in writing or by word of mouth. Also, today was mustache day...so that added to the excitement of the day! As some of you may already know, I had a pretty good idea where my place was going to be in advance. More so, what I thought would happen did...and my dreams came true. So, where am I going? Where will I call home? In which part of this world will I be bringing the funk for the next two years?

I am going to a tiny city of about 500 people (about 180 families) tucked DEEP in the mountains in the department of Ancash. I have one of the most remote sites in all of Peru, and in most of Peace Corps South America (or so I'm told). More so, it is also one of the most beautiful sites (apparently).

This quaint little village is nestled in the Andes mountains, in the extent referred to as the Cordillera Huayhuash. This portion of the Andes hold the mightiest peaks and most breathtaking mountain scenery as 22 peaks pass the 6000 meter mark. The Cordillera range is the highest mountain range in the world outside of the Himalayas. More so, the snow covered saw-toothed horizon is complimented by green carpeted valleys and remote turquoise lakes.

The capital city in this department is Huaraz, which is a 7 or 8 hour bus ride out of Lima. From there, I travel another 4 or 5 hours in micro bus to a city of about 5000 people at 3400 meters. From there, my site is nothing more than a one hour walk away. Like I said, I'm WAY OUT there.

In addition to all these gnarly facts, the community also does partially communicate in Quechua (the native langue of the Inca). However, it is a mostly Spanish speaking site. Nonetheless, I have already begun my classes in Quechua (Imaynalataq Kachkanki?).

Anyway, while there, I am going to be working on several different projects...in addition to my personal projects of knitting my own hammock and carving my own backgammon board ( and pulling mountain trout out of the river). I will be working on maintaining a library (which was set up by a former volunteer (a super gnarly dude)) and promoting literacy through them as well as through the local school. In addition, I will be initiating garbage control projects and guinea pig rearing projects (the two are unrelated...don't be smart). Also, I will be working with various community clubs, organizations, and small businesses. Lastly, I will taking that hour long trek to the bigger city to work in an orphanage a couple times a week where I will be taking the kids out on hiking trips and other activities related to self-esteem or health...or whatever basic life info they seem to need help with. All this being said, Peace Corps volunteers often change plans (very often). Therefore, some of the planned projects could fall through while others are erected. Flexibility and patience are the words to live by. In the meantime, I'll just chill out and try my best!

I leave this Sunday for my site visit. I will be spending 2 days in the capital city and then 4 days in my future home. Apparently, the minor details of my living arrangements are still being worked out, as I don't have a floor in my room and will not have a bathroom to use (nor a latrine...yes, pooping in a field; the world is my bathroom). On the upside, it will be the most beautiful bathroom I've ever had...there's ALWAYS and upside!