Falling Into The Andes

Ah yes...as those of you stateside are baring witness to the divine iridescent glow of the enchanting trees changing, carving your pumpkins, watching baseball playoffs and football kickoffs, we too are engaging in our own October behavior.  The agrarian wheat fields have been cultivated, and are being primed for the next batch of produce.  The mountainous fields have turned to golden brown and are being set afire in order to further fertile the land for the next batch.  Teeming opaque smoke fills the air in the daytime; obstructing visibility but providing magnificent reflections during the close-of-day twilight.  In the interim, providing an engaging kaleidoscopic of dazzling purplish-red and orange-yellow movement under the clear midnight skies.  

Now, comes the relentless rain.  It's heavy.  I've been forewarned of its steadfastness.  However, so far it has been ill in comparison to the deluged downpours of the Costa Rican rainforest.  My altruistic parents have sent me a pair of overshoes to cover my hiking boots as I am unable to purchase a pair of rain boots to fit my hulking feet.  I trudge up and down the paths in full rain gear, smirking at the precarious stares of wonder.  “What's this 'gringo loco' doing in this part of the world?”  and “What the hell is he wearing?”.

If that rain wasn't so staunch, I just might stop and explain myself. 

In addition to the inquisitive daily occurrences, I've also begun to encounter other duties.  Peace Corps Peru has decided to launch a “Peer Support Network” in following the example of other programs abroad.  It's goal is to train Peace Corps Volunteers in every department (the equivalent to a state in the U.S.) so that they may act as a resource for other Peace Corps Volunteers who would like assistance in coping with the tribulations of the Peace Corps in Peru.  With pride, I am the volunteer representing my department.  I will be attending a meeting in December down in Lima to begin construction of this program; establishing goals, guidelines, missions, and aims.  It is my privilege to be part of this new program.  Unfortunately, we are all to regularly saying goodbyes and farewells to volunteers who have decided to return to the US to seek other pursuits.  Those are hard times.  In fact, I just parted way with one of my best friends down here.  I wish him (and the other 6 that have left from my training group) the best in his (their) future endeavors.   

Things are moving along...slowly and dithering.  I fill my days with productive efforts; uncertain of potential successes.  Day hikes with friends and family members have provided me with gasping sites and sometimes not so admirant conclusions.  For instance, one Sunday, I spent the entire day rambling upstream to get to a church where legend states a miracle has left the face of Jesus in a rock.  To my lack of bewilderment, I found little more than what appeared to be a rock painted to resemble the son of God in which a church had been constructed 

around.  Without dismay, I proceeded to enjoy the brisk clean mountain air combined with the rippling clamor of the river as I ungrudgingly meandered home.  Happy to be learning as I go, as we all should be.

Well that's...umm, ehhhh...different?

Of course, with this title, I am referring to the awkward state of affairs in which you want to describe an occurrence as “weird”, but the better part of your conscience leads you to define it merely as “different”. Of course, I encounter many such happenings on a regular basis, from foods to customs. The following are just a few that struck me as worth sharing...you know...like: “You've got to hear this...”

First, I would like to comment on my villages fiesta. As expressed in previous entries, I have accrued a great deal of experience in the Peruvian fiesta in the sierra. These five day events are packed full of parades, bands, dances, bull fights, processions, eating, and a sprinkle of individuality. Well, my village had its big fiesta in the middle of September. Being such a small community, we don't exactly have the resources to compete with the larger cities. However, we do have the creativity to make our festival worth repeating. More so, we have our own twist of uniqueness that renders you interpreting the experience as, well, “different”.

The gigantic vats of goat soup (enough to feed the entire community) are something special in themselves. In addition, our bullring is a bit ghetto, as well. However, it is the simulation of the Spanish Conquest that will really make you go “huh?”.

There are a group of six men who are emblematic of the Spaniards that came through this area some 450 years ago. These men suit up in exaggerated wardrobes, mount horses, and ride through the village. Meanwhile, the remaining citizens congregate in mobs to bombard the riders with apples, lemons, candy, tomatoes...(I think I even saw a few rocks in there, in fact). This goes on for about an hour. That's right, people run all over the city throwing things at guys on horses. Meanwhile, the horsemen are firing their own arsenals at the rowdy patrons in exchange. It's quite the spectacle indeed. And, surprisingly, the horses are pretty well behaved throughout.

Of course, I must admit that I participated in the exhibition...but just a little bit, though. Really, it's not that I wanted to experience the liberating feel of rocketing a lemon at a masked guy on a horse. No, rather, I was just trying to integrate into the community. Well...I must admit, there's definitely an enchanting sensation when you smack one good...

Another thing that just might catch you asleep at the wheel is the alternative to the fenced-in pasture. You see, fence posts and barbedwire are expensive commodities; not to mention the weeks it would take to piece them together on the mountainside. To save on such expenditures, people here prefer to tie the front two legs of their animals together; be it goat, donkey, sheep, etc. It's actually pretty functional, as it definitely restricts their movement; ensuring that you'll find all your animals in the morning. However, you've got to feel sorry for the pour guys who look like their struggling so hard to get around...learning how to walk all over again.

Speaking of animals, there is a path right in front of my door that leads to the pastures on the hillside. At any given time, a long line of farm animals can potentially parade by my doorstep. Not that this occurrence is all that strange, but it has taken some time to get used to, nonetheless.

Question: Would it freak you out if you were eating chicken while a hen was sitting on the chair next to you? Yeah, there's just something a little awkward about that in my opinion, as well.

Oh! This is interesting...I've been a little ill this past week; nobody seems quite sure what is ailing me. Notable, herbal and natural remedies are one of this areas most popular exports...that, and gold. Therefore, I've been getting served batches of concoctions and elixers when I feel unwell. Most of the time, I choke them down; figuring that the leafy herbs can't do too much harm (I'm optimistic enough to know that there's a chance...no matter how slight). However, when I was faced with a remedial urine tea, I quickly declined...sorry, but that's just gross. But, I appreciate the effort, nonetheless.

Lastly, I would like to share a few inquiries made by fellow community members: “What are you doing?” (posed by my entire family while I was flossing my teeth); “So, you are with the CIA then?” (that's a pretty common one); And, my favorite, “How many vampires live in your home community?” (my response was a farcical “six”).

Now, all this talk really makes it sound like the village is throwing me off balance. Be that as it may, those who know me best can confirm that I'm flexible, and am inevitably bound to combat the irregularities with my own “freak the people out” tactics (I'm pretty sure I get this from my father). However, because my physical appearance is often enough to allocate a triple-take, I don't have to be too creative. Actually, I'm pretty sure most people here are like bears...they're more afraid of me than I of them. Nonetheless, I've found that bending and breaking gender roles is a pretty good way to turn some heads. For example, I carry my clothes down to the river or stream and do my laundry there, out in the open for all to see. Surely, this rouses the people. As far as I can tell, they're pretty taken back by a male doing laundry. That, or, they're just unsettled about seeing my underwear scattered down the shoreline...for which I can't blame them.